Charring is what separates a flat salsa from one with depth. Blistering the skins concentrates sugars, adds smoke, and softens the flesh so it blends smoothly. Here is how to do it properly.
Three methods
- Open flame: best for poblanos and large chiles. Set them directly on a gas burner and turn with tongs until evenly blackened, about six minutes.
- Comal or cast iron: best for jalapenos, serranos, tomatillos, garlic, and onion. Dry pan, medium-high heat, turn occasionally until spotted and soft, ten to fifteen minutes.
- Broiler: best for volume. Everything on a sheet pan, six inches from the element, turning once, about ten minutes.
How much char is right
For thick-skinned chiles you want the skin fully blackened, because you will peel it. For tomatillos, jalapenos, and tomatoes you want roughly a third of the surface spotted black and the rest deep brown. Fully blackened tomatillos make salsa taste bitter and ashy.
Steam, then peel
Move charred poblanos or Anaheims into a bowl and cover for ten minutes. The steam loosens the skin so it slips off with your fingers. Do not rinse them under water; you will wash away most of the flavor you just built.
Garlic and onion
Char unpeeled garlic cloves on the comal until soft and spotted, then peel. Halve the onion and lay it cut side down until deeply browned. Both add sweetness that raw versions cannot.
Balancing the finished salsa
Charred ingredients need salt and acid to come forward. Blend, taste, add salt, then lime or a splash of vinegar. If it tastes bitter, add a pinch of sugar or a little more tomatillo.
Try this method with our charred tomatillo salsa and salsa roja recipes.
